Weather permitting…

We woke up to a pretty impressive thunderstorm with torrential rain ~ even getting soaked. Just going to breakfast! Such weather is very unusual; normally there’s no more rain after April.

After breakfast and drying off(!), we were on the coach and heading east, and down to Jericho. From there, we headed north, along the Jordan Valley, eventually heading north west, arriving in Nazareth ~ about 2 1/2 hours later. One of the places we traversed was the Jezreel Valley, where Paula led our thoughts about Jezebel.

All of the sites visited today weee in Nazareth. In the time of Jesus, it was a small village with perhaps 300 people; today, it’s a large, bustling city. Having said that, the streets were quieter than usual ~ you may have heard on the news that, tragically, yesterday people were killed here in local, gang-like violence. One of the responses to the issue of policing was for businesses to go on strike today, which meant most shops were closed. This one was open…

Our first location was the amazing archaeological excavation underneath the Sisters of Nazareth convent, where, relatively recently, was discovered a first century home and tomb. One of the sisters, I think the Superior, explained a little, and then showed us. I have been here before, including the time when our then guide, the wonderful Dawoud, got into a very heated discussion with one of the nuns! But this time, the significance of this site seemed to hit home. 

Nazareth, as I said, was a small village in Jesus’ time. No one knows whose house this was, but it was definitely here at that time. Interestingly, there’s clear evidence of both byzantine and Crusader churches above this house, so clearly it has been venerated in the past. It offers a tangible picture of a home and a tomb in  first century Palestine.

The weather seemed to follow us, with an impressive, thunderstorm and torrential rain ~ again very strange weather for this time of year. In the heat, the water quickly evaporated, of course, adding to the humidity! After the rain stopped, we walked round the corner to visit the Church of the Annunciation. 

This is the largest church in the holy land. Some find the architecture stunning, others don’t like the vast stark space. Is it built over a first century home cut into the rock, perhaps the site of the angel Gabriel announcing to Mary that she had found favour with God and would bear God’s son. 

Paula led one of her helpful reflections in the courtyard, the walls of which are covered in mosaics from around the world, each depicting Mary in their own cultural style. Some are simply Mary, some of the annunciation, and some with Jesus. In the past, I have taken many photos of the incredible and beautiful rich variety. This time, I focused on this one, from Ukraine…

There are more mosaics inside the church, and we had time, individually, to visit the lower church, with the archaeological remains, and take time also in the upper church ~ one of the things, I love, it’s a beautiful modern glass.

We then walked into the old city, to visit an amazing place! It’s a shop and cafe called ‘Ghada’s Corner’, named after the remarkable woman who owns it. She sells a stunning collection of items sourced from local producers, many women. She is also a passionate and fantastic cook! She prepared for us, a culinary delight of dishes from across the Middle East, explaining to us about each, the ingredients and recipes. The experience was so sumptuous, both in terms of taste and also visually in its presentation, in this fantastic space.

Ghada is a wonderful storyteller and communicator, and spoke about her life, some of the challenges she has overcome, and her incredible entrepreneurial gifts. It was simply delightful listening to her ~ we all enjoyed our time in her ‘Corner’ so much, not least because of the air conditioning! 

Our final site in Nazareth was the Greek Orthodox Church, also commemorating the annunciation, but in a slightly different location connected to the spring supplying water to the village ~ an alternative tradition regarding this event. The church is stunning with its icons and paintings.

We then left Nazareth, heading east(ish!) for about an hour until we reached the shore of the Sea of Galilee ~ always such an evocative sight! En route, we passed through the modern city of Cana, and Paula led another fascinating reflection on the miracle at the wedding in Cana, particularly on the relationship between Jesus and his mother.

For the next two nights we’re staying at Pilgerhaus, a German guest house, right on the lake shore. After checking in and getting a little refreshed, there were further refreshments in the form of lovely, cool pint of Palestinian beer on the terrace overlooking the lake, before dinner. And so began the northern part of a course, in Galilee.